Day 40 - Completo

Day 40 - 5/23/17 - Completo

Ostabat to door Jean Pied de Port
Statistics : distance: 23.6 miles/ 37.8 km , steps: 50,034. elevation climbed: 1,470 feet weather: sunny 80.

I stayed l last night in someone's basement since all the gites were pfull. Clean up all my spread out stuff, organize it into piles . Then put each pile in a ziplock bag. Toss the ziplock bags into the hiking backpack. Hoist the backpack on my shoulders. Make some qminor adjustments. Turn off the lights. Walk out the door. Grab my clothes which are still moiwashing.

Today the plan is a short 10 km walk to the Gite Paradise in Larceveux. I walk until I reach a Refugio from the 1600s. I meet an older couple eating some snacks. The Refugio masonry joints have been repointed And a new roof. Is 9 o'clock in the morning. I should've seen the Paradise Gite on the way to here. I backtrack for the next two hours looking for this Gite. this is where I am supposed to meet Clive and Maya Cowell tomorrow. It is The only option since Ostabat is full. After two hours of walkingI have a resident where it is it is. He calls the phone number there's no answer. He calls his neighbor and she says come over and I will show you where it is. Go over to her house she points out which house i am looking for. It is now early afternoon I head over to the house. There's no one home.

Sit on the grass think about what I'm going to do now. 10 minutes later the neighbor shows up. She says that the Gite will not open today. She says my only option is head on into St Jean Pied de Port. It is 3 o'clock and it is a 15 km walk. It should take me 4 hours I tell her .thank you and have a great day.

I start walking. After about an hour of walkingI have two choices walk down the highway or a meanderinig path. I I Choose the road. I put on my headphones and turn up the music and start walking on the road. When the song "walk this way” by run DMc and aerosmoth starts playing, I just can't help but to start dancing, before the song ends two cars honk their horns in support. I get motivated and keep dancing for another 10 kilometers.

I walk into St Jean playing Prince’s ‘let's go crazy’

“Dearly beloved
We are gathered here today
To get through this thing called life
Electric word "life"
It means forever and that's a mighty long time
But I'm here to tell you, there's something else
The afterworld

A world of never-ending happiness
You can always see the sun
Day or night
So when you call up that shrink in Beverly Hills
You know the one, Dr. Everything'll-Be-Alright
Instead of asking him how much of your time is left
Ask him how much of your mind, baby
'Cause in this life
Things are much harder than in the afterworld
In this life, you're on your own
And if de-elevator tries to bring you down
Go crazy, punch a higher floor
…”

I have a feeling of satisfaction in the sense that i did something I did not think I could do. And I didn't need to change the rules. I didn't take more medicine that my prescription. I didn't use a bicycle. I didn't receive any outside help. I did it myself. . It's a beautiful moment. I had done to the Gites to look for one to stay st and see if there any friends in Town.

I run into Harry and Bridgette Slinkman. And I run unto Marie. She is the person that I ruan into the most on this walk. I ran to her at Conques, Decazeville, Limoney, Cahor, Ostabat and St Jean Pied de port.

Days later she sent me a text wishing me a happy birthday and a good trip to Italy. I told her to stop stalking me LOL.

Day 39: Ultreia

 






















Day 39. May 22, 2017

Navarrenx to Ostabat

Statistics: 35.5 miles/56.8 km, Steps: 75,368, Elevation climbed: 3,560 feet, Time walking: 5:19 am to 7:15 pm = 14 hours, Average speed: 4km/hr or 2.5 mph, Blisters: 2, Sore knees: none, Loose dogs with big teeth that chased me: 6

0 km at 5:19 am
I woke early around 2 am and i am just twisting and turning. Probably keeping others in this 4 bed dormitory room awake, so I grab my things and head to the kitchen. My plan is to leave by 5:15 am but I have to send some emails to reserve some accommodations in Italy first. I type a common message and personalize each with the correct location and the night of the stay.

Then it's foot management time. I take care of my feet. Bandaging raw areas or wounds. Vaseline in between the toes. Lastly put on the shoes. I am almost ready to go when I hear rainfall then crackle and boom - thunder.

When your day starts off with thunder, you know something special is going happen. It's like a drum roll setting up the big day. Of course, I had no idea what an incredible day it would be. Ultreia is a German word that means go a little further. I am told it is from a popular German song. Today would all about ‘going a little further.’

I pick up my backpack and I am out the Gite door and heading down some stairs. It's still dark at 5:15 am.

I start walking going from the urban town of Navarrenx, to the suburbs then to the more rural areas and the Chemin (path) then going into the forest. I haven't seen a soul yet.

5 kilometers at 6:15 am
It's 6:15 am and the sun rises at 6:30am. I head into the forest. I feel really relaxed. I am at ease this morning. At peace. Unusually so. I keep walking, still not a soul in a sight.

The sun rises and it's not an awesome sunrise. Instead of taking tons of pic, I take a few and continue on walking. At the time, I'm not thinking about anything. For the first time, in a long time my mind is not racing trying to solve 1 million different problems. It's just empty which never happens...

Instead, my senses are absorbing all the sights, sounds and smells. It's amazing. I am hearing sounds individually. Like the the little bug that buzzs by my ear. Or the stream that's gurgling on the side of the road. Or the leaves of the Aspen trembling in the wind. I'm lost in the moment I really don't know how long it lasts but it seems like 30 minutes. It's a beautiful 30 minutes absorbing the environment around me.

Finally two people walk by me but there's no one else for another 2 hours. I have been walking for almost 4 hours
but I feel really fresh like I haven't walked at all.

15 km Lichos at 9:30 am
I cross a bridge and there's a beautiful stream with crystal-clear water. Usually all the streams have brown or green water. This stream is spectacularly clear. It just looks too good to pass up. I cross the bridge and find a way down and there's a car parked there. As I approach the stream I see a man flyfishing. I ask him if it's OK if I get in the water here. He motions that it is OK. I wade into the stream but it is bone chilling cold. It feels like it should be ice.

I wouldn't call it swimming but I dive into the water. Now I'm cold it is time to get out of the water. That was super refreshing.

I head to Aroue looking for the gîte Escargot.

25 km Aroue at 11:30am
When I arrive there are a number of Gîtes. Seems like each one has altered the Camino signage to direct all pilgrims by their Gite. After walking all over the town, I stop by the only Gite on the main drag. I meet the owner, Phillip and he says the Escargot Gîte is 15 kilometers away.

At that time I had no idea the Gite I was standing in was the right Gite. And Gite Escargot was tomorrow’s Gîte. I probally had close to 25 km of walking already done. Another 15 would be ok. My legs felt good and my knees were behaving well.

The next two hours of walking went by a number of houses with some big dogs with big teeth that acted like I was trespassing by walking in the middle of the road. I keep my eyes open for a nice stick.

About this time, I run into Stefan from Bavaria with Rastafarian hair. Stefan Is a kindergarten counselor on sabbatical walking to Santiago. His hair helps him stand out as I had seen In Navarrenx the night before. We both have no water. I knock on the first door and the lady is kind and refills our bottles. Stefan and I walk another 1000 meters then we go our separate ways.

40 km Larribar at 3:30pm
I rest and take Parkinson's medicine then proceed to the Gite Escargot. Amazingly, I still have energy and my knees feel great. I see the sign for the Gite Recargot and it points straight up a hill. Slow and steady up the hill I go. At the top the road turns into farm road.

There's a house and a second building that may be a Gite but it's pretty run down, I sit down and eat the remaining half of the chocolate bar which had melted. I lick the remaining chocolate from the tin foil.

There are two clear options. go back to Aroue which is 15+ kilometers or go forward 5-15 kilometers. I hate going backwards, so i hoist up the backpack once again and start walking. I walk through two villages but no Gîtes.

Next stop Ostabat. It's another 10-15 kilometers. I cross a stream and the path turns into a single track path climbing the mountain. After a few kilometers the path merges into a rural street and goes through a small community. The street ends into a gravel road that goes straight up the mountain. Steep vertical pitch and not a soul in sight.

I keep reminding myself that you'll get there just put one foot in front of another and i’ll get to the top. There's some signs but they refer to native plantings. No trail signs. In the distance is a small structure with some benches. I head that way.

47 km Chapelle de Soyarza at 5:15 pm
It's the chapelle de Soyarza at the top of the mountain. I like this type of chapel - small and in an incredible natural setting. I am very dehydrated, fortunately there's a small waterline. I fill the water bottle then drink the whole thing then fill the bottle.

50 km Saint Nicholas chapel at 6:00 pm
I pass the chapel and I am happy to be descending. Time to get off this mountain! The gravel path ends at Saint Nicholas chapel. And restarts on the other side of the chapel. Amazingly it's actually goes up for a couple of kilometers. Really? I am feeling pretty good but worried that Clive and Maya may be worriedsince I was suppose to be In Aroue 6-7 hours ago. I finally see the small town of Ostabat.

56.8 km Ostabat at 7:15pm
As I enter the town, two medium size dogs bark and show their Big Teeth. I have seen lots of big dogs today but these two take the cake for trying to bite me. I see Marie and she's heading for dinner and recommends trying the next Gite since hers is full.

The next Gite is serving dinner and they are on the first course of Basque soup. There's two seats left for dinner. They offer to talk to their neighbor about sleeping in their basement. I eat dinner talking to two French women , two Australians and a couple from the Alsace. I log onto the gite’s wifi and let Clive and Maya know that I am ok.

During the dinner, the Alsace and Australia couple love to talk about American this and that. At one point they are just dumfounded how Americans can like tube cheese and cheese wiz. Finish dinner and head to my
Basement.

The end of walking all day with few breaks. My best day of walking ever and my knees feel terrific. 56.8 km, 75368 steps and 3,560 feet.

A perfect ending to an awesome walking route.

Day 38: Pyrenees Sunrise

Pyrenees Sunrise
Day 38
Sauvelade to Navarrenx
Statistics: 12.1 miles/19.4 km, steps 25,728, elevation climbed: 790 feet weather: awesome sunny and 70s (after sunrise)

I woke up at 3 AM because I'm so excited about walking by myself. You are more in tune with things around you and you see things plus the pictures of sunrise during the golden hour. (Yum yum)

I leave the Gite at 5:20am.

About Thousand feet from the Gite there was a grove of bamboo as I walk up to it, it starts to rustle and there’s flapping noises. As I get close to it, bats fly out in every direction. That's the way to start your morning. And none were vampire bats :)

I continue walking. Although I like taking pictures of the sunrise, I'm a little scared of the dark I guess my mind is creative about what's in the dark that I cannot see. On the edge of town the road becomes a farm road with covered trees it is dark and i use my iPhone for light for a little while....

The covered road becomes open after a mile. Getting close to some colors in the sky for sunrise and the road climbs to a nice height with long vistas. Take photos and then continue on. Another mile down the road there are incredible vistas of the
distant Pyrenees. This is the first time I can see them in all their glory. Unobstructed and boy they look dynamite. They are about 60 kilometers away. I will be there in 4 days on my 53rd birthday.

On the side road there's a tent it's two pilgrims that I met earlier at the Gite that decided to carry-on and I run into them later in the morning in Navarrenx and we talk story.

I continue walking until I walk reach my destination of Navarrenx. I checkout the 3 Gîtes my friend would be staying at but he’s left already.

Time for coffee and making a video

Day 37: Walking Solo

Walking Solo

Day 37 - Sauvelade 5/20/17
Statistics: 15.9 miles/25.6 km, Steps: 33,908 Elevation climbed: 870 feet. Weather: Sprinkled rain for 30 minutes then cloudy then sunny in 60s.

Walked through the town with heavy clouds hanging over. Looked like could be sunny or to rain, not sure. Ended up sprinkling rain for about 20 minutes and that was it.

Stopped at the market and bought a slice of pizza and then continued to the church. Took pictures of the church inside and then I walked by myself for three hours.

It's nice walking by yourself sometimes. You walk to your speed, and you stop when you want to stop. No pressure to catch up, plus I love walking during sunrise..

I've been a little lax on my Parkinson's medicine taking it inconsistently. For the first hour I had difficulty walking. By the time I got to mile 3 my legs were finally working again. But I had taken three doses of medicine by that time. It wasn't the medicine it was the knee brace that was inhibiting my movement.

Had the pleasure of walking with Maximillion from lake Cuomo for about an hour and a half until We reached Sauvelade. Say goodbye but we can expect to see each other tomorrow. I say aloha and he’s gone.

I decide it is time to start walking by myself again. I'm the slowest walker I have met on the Camino and if I do walk with someone, I've invariably hurt myself. I love waking up early and take pictures of walking at sunrise. Its my favorite time of day for photography. I think it works out better this way.

Both knees feel fragile but they both feel OK . I think I pulled a hamstring muscle today but it's minor should be fine. Overall I think the health I am doing really well

I make my usual pasta dinner, write my blog agoing to sleep soon

Day 36: The Chapels

The Chapels  - Day 36 

5/19/18
Statistics : distance: 13.1 miles 21.0 km , steps: 37,818 elevation climbed: 660 feet weather: first hour no rain then rest of the day 40 degrees and Raining

Most of my gear is still wet. It was too damp and the Gite owner would not turn on the heat. the place was very cheap but we got what we paid.

The two Korean ladies head out. In Sook is limping pretty bad from a twisted ankle.she says she is walking 32 kilometers. That's a long distance for someone who is hobbled. We say our goodbyes and I say aloha. She has great attitude and is always smiling. An Amazing positive person. She dissappears from view pretty fast.

Next is Harry and Bridget. They don their raincoats and say a quick goodbye and they are motoring. Clive and Maya are still packing so I head back down the road to the last church we passed. Which we. Never checked out.

It's a short walk to the church. All the churches in this area have a mansard type black roof. I hope I spelled mansard right…. I love these churches and chapels, they look so unique. Like a church from the movie Edward Scissor Hands!

We will end up seeing 3 more chapels with similar roofs today. I head back to the Gite and it looks like Clive and Maya are ready to go. We don all our gear and hoist the backpacks and we are off and walking.

The sun is poking through the clouded but theclouds are think and sky has very few openings for the sun to shine thorough. I predict rain. Hopefully it is warmer.

We walk for about an hour before it starts raining. It's mostly flat until we reach Castillon. About 30 minutes prior my Parkinson's is causing my right leg to drag so I take some more medicine and tell Clive and Maya to head on And I will meet them at the Gite.

I like taking my time and visiting church along the way. When it's cold and rainy Clive and Maya like to hurry. There's one problem the town of Castillon has 3-4 dogs unleashed. I make it through but one dog really tried to get behind me like it was going to bite me.

I arrive in Arthez-de-Bearn to Clive in the middle of the road waving me to the hostel. The hostel is run by he friendliest chef.

It is the 8 dth day walking since I was injuried. I feel. Great and it's the second day walking with my backpack. I feel recovered. I am relieved both legs are working well.

I do a bunch of emails , blogs and other internet stuff. A masseuse stops by the Gite to promote her services. I jump in her car and she goes to her studio. I feel better.

Do some administration nistrrinbe type stuff and go to sleep

Day 35: The Rain

The Rain

Day 35  5/18/17
Statistics: 14.7 miles/23.4 km, Steps: 30,914 Elevation climbed: 1,160 feet. Weather: Raining all day and in the 40s

Today is the first day with the backpack. The real test of My health. I eat breakfast nad Maximilian and Gabriella stop by to say goodbye. I am sad Gabriella is going home. She has an infectious posing attitude and a Great smile. Maybe I will see her in Zurich someday:) I think my might see Maximillion again too.

Within an hour of leaving town it starts to rain, really raining andit's about 40°. We think about staying at the church but it's not going to stop anytime soon so we Head out into the rain.

The rains for the rest of the day and we are just trying to get through it and make it to the next Gîte which is at Uzan..

It Is the most adverse weather I have ever walked in and we did it for six hours.

When we arrive at Uzan it is difficult to find the Gite. Only a small handwritten sign indicates that it is the Gite.

There are 4 other people staying at The same Gite. The first rover the two Korean women ones name is Insook. she tells me that the two of you met at a café in South Korea for an event for people doing the Camino to me other people doing the Camino.we know they are cold when they arrive. So Clive and I offer them coffee which Clive makes. It's an instant coffee which they are thankful for.

In France, they drink coffee from a Bowl.

Lastly Bridget Harry Slinkman arrive.The four of us eat dinner at the same time.Clive and I bought one euro worth of pasta and pasta sauce from the Gite owner. As were making dinner I'm playing music from the Moissac organ, nuns and the La Romieu Veterans Day music. As the La Romieu Veterans Day music plays both Slinkmans start singing the song. Seems like we bonded at the moment.

They see we have no cheese for the pastas like it was cheese so they give us some cheese and go desert day they give us applesauce. it's amazing what a little friendship and food can do.

It's still raining and we decide togo to bed

Day 34: Chores, really mom!

Chores, really mom!

Day 34 Arzaq-Arraziguet 5/17

Statistics: Distance walk around town:5.9 miles/9.4 km, steps:12,413
Van: Aire Sur L’Adour to Arzaq-Arraziguet

The three of us are pretty beaten

up. We decided to take a van today instead of walking. Better than getting to Ng injured having to stop a couple days. We see a couple of our friends including Gabriella, Maximillion and Frank the German bicyclist.

It's a good day to do some chores. We focus on making our bookings for the rest of France in the first week of Italy.

Talk to Gabriella and she's tired and decided to go home. She said she'll travel to Switzerland tomorrow. Also one into Frank the German bicyclist from Munich. Here's an interesting bicycle. It has a battery and motor so He doesn't have to kill him self to get places. Sounds like a good idea to me.

Also meet Maximillion who is a 28-year-old Italian from Lake Como and he's injured his knee. We drink wine talk story into the night.

All in all, a pretty quiet day.

Walking Statistics for 34 days

Statistics for first 34 days

Distance Walked
413 km
258 miles
580,275 steps
14467 feet climbed in elevation
Days walking;20
Days resting: 14 ( 9 days with swollen knee)

Day 33: The Convent

The Convent

Day 33 5/16/17
Lelin Lapujolle to Aire-Sur-L’Adour

A fairly mundane walk of going downhill ⅓ to the flats. Walking along railroad tracks for a ⅓. The Walking through urban sprawl for ⅓. First day in a while nothing stood out. Although, I have to say most of the GR65 is spectacular.

When we reach Aire-Sur-L’Adour we go immediately to the tourisme information to book the Italian plane and train segments to Milan. We also book some more Gîtes.

As we walk through town I s.ee a seamstress sewing. I stop and get my day bag fixed. She does a fantastic job!Then head To the Gite and to meet Clive and maya.

The Convent has been renovated and does not hav nuns anymore . It is now operated as a private Gite. The main area is a huge gathering room. Two small siderooms The Convent
Day 33 5/16/17
Lelin Lapujolle to Aire-Sur-L’Adour

A fairly mundane walk of going downhill ⅓ to the flats. Walking along railroad tracks for a ⅓. The Walking through urban sprawl for ⅓. First day in a while nothing stood out. I really have to say most of the GR65 is spectacular.

When we reach Aire-Sur-L’Adour we go immediately to the tourisme information to book the Italian plane and train segments to Milan. We also book some more Gîte's.

As we walk through town I see a seamstress sewing. I stop and get My day bag fixed. Then head To the Gite and to meet Clive and maya.

The Convent has been renovate and has no Nuns. It is now Operated as a private Gite. The main area is a huge gathering room. Two small siderooms are very small dormitory style lodging and ours has bunk beds. Then there's our roommate - Max. He introduces himself as a very loud snorer. He proves to be formidable later that night. He wasn't joking. Max is probably retired and he lives In the Reunion islands. He lake 30km a day. He initially speaks Superb English but decides for some reason to speak on Only French a couple of hours later.

We head out to get something to eat electing for a kebab meal. We check out the nearby church and run into a touring center cyclist named Frank a German from Bavaria. He has a great bicycle setup for touring. It cost him $3000 euros and he said it was the best investment he ever made according to him. It has disc Brakes and Battery and motor with a Range of 70km.The bike has two rear paniers and a suitcase on top of the rear rack that overhangs the two panier bags. Also a front handlebar bag. small but our

Then there's our roommate - Max. He introduces himself as a very loud snorer. He proves to be formidable later that night. He wasn't joking. Mad is probably retired and he lives In the Reunion islands. He initially speaks
Superb English but decides for some reason to speak on Only French a couple of hours later.

We head out to get something to eat electing for a kebab meal. We check out the nearby church and run into a touring center cyclist named Frank a German from Bavaria. He has a great bicyclist and setup for touring. It cost him $3000 euros and he said it was the best investment he ever made according. It has disc Brakes and Battery and motor with a Range of 70km.The bike has two rear paniers and a suitcase on top of the reAr rack that overhangs the two panier bags. Also a front handlebar bag.

Like most nights i plan on passing the time in the common area on the Internet, writing my blog and researching for future days. When everyone leaves the common area common the owner comes out and says I must go to bed. I compromise and go to the bedroom and close the door and stay right at the backside of the door. it's funny the things I do for the Internet.

The only problem is that there's a motion station light right there too I remember you move very slowly and not get detected.

I eventually get tired and go to bed and fall asleep..

Day 31: The Song

Day 31: The Song

Monciet to Nogaro

Statistics: distance walked: 12.0 miles /19.2 km

km, steps: 25,684 elevation climbed: 420, Sunny skies, 70 degrees

Day 32: The Dinners

The Camino Magic

Day 32 5/15/17
Nogaro to Lelin Lapujolle

Stati stics: distance walked: 14.7 miles /34.0 km, steps: 30,957 elevation climbed: 990 feet, Sunny skies, 70 degrees



Is a bright sunny day and the path is hard and well marked.it's an easy day. About lunchtime Clive just stops on top of the hill behind us. Just the sky literally 15-20 minutes go by and he’s not moving. I said just amble down the path, Surely they will catch up with me since I'm so slow. Clive has taken a real fancy to planes lately.

For you at the G and Clive and Maya are nowhere to be found. Show up about half hour later. Turns out Clive stood there for 45 minutes looking at the sky had to sit on the lunch.

The location is very remote. This one house across the street and the nearest store is 5 to 6 miles away. We like to have dinner cookedn by the owner since so far away. Not a big surprise but everyone elects to have dinner. There are three groups of people us, married couple Jean-Paul and Elizabeth and three older women traveling together - Nicole Josie Kristen.

They're all French which means probably the dinner conversation will be all in French. Over the years I've noticed that Americans are expected to know the language of the European country they are visiting which sounds good but it's completely unreasonable you consider we are going to a couple countries. People in hawaii are learning Hawaiian or Chinese or Japanese they're not going to learn French. What was exceptional for about this dinner is that ther are speaking a mqix of English and French for us.

I think it's always fascinating and healthy to have cultural exchange. It's the quickest way to find out that people are people no matter where they live in this world. They are Just like you and me. The way the television portrays people is so false.

It is a Wonderful evening and one of my favorite moments of the trip so far. Is the same as 3years ago the dinners were some of the best moments of the trip.

After dinner We all retire and it is hot. On top of the sheets is uncomfortable you hot. Surprisingly I do go to sleep.

Day 30: The Plain Jane

The Plain Jane

Day 30 Monciet

Statistics: distance walked: 10.0 miles /16.1

km, steps: 20,974  8elevation climbed: 570, Sunny skies, 70 degrees8

Day 29: The Best Day

The Best Day

Day 29 Eauze

Statistics: distance walked: 14.8 miles /24,2 km, steps: 31,531 elevation climbed: 470 Sunny skie 70 degrees

William is my driver. He speaks superb English. He is from Condom. We talk about the spiritual aspect of the camino and my reason for doing the walk. He drops me and my backpack at the Gite and shows Me where the tourism off is located. I grab my day bag and start walking back in the path. 2 hours later I run into clive and maya. I am moving really fast thanks to my new knee brace. Buy a couple sodas and we're off. I feel Great. End u walking 24,2 km!!! And I still feel great.’nice flat walk. Town is quaint.

Do some housekeeping stuff and hit the sack.

Day 28: The Restart

The Restart

Day 28 Montreal

Statistics: 10.4 miles/16.7 kilometers, steps:22,028, elevation climbed:630 feet, sunny, 70 degrees

8 am the driver shows up and picks up my Backpack and myself. The plan was to drop me off 5 km outside of town and drop off my bag in Montreal at the Gite. But there's some confusion as the driver has instructions to drop me 11 km from town. Another reason to speak French!

He drops me off 11 Km from my destination. Suck It up buttercup! I see another pilgrim with as dog checking her map.

We start walking together, her name is Stephanie . The dog is not hers. The dog is not hers. It has been following her for about a mile. She slows down and I pick up speed. I get to town ok. My knee is really good. No problem. Montreal is a small town. Not much here.

Day 27: The X Ray

The X Ray

Day 27 Agen/Condom
Statistics: distance walked: 5.1 miles/ 8.0 km, steps: 10,755 elevation climbed: 160 feet, sunny, 70 degrees

We decide to head to the city of Agen for a bigger hospital since Condom is a small town. We are directed to the emergency room. I check in and I am informed since I am not A French citizen, I must pay my bill when I amand usually a lot of people waiting.NowIamthinkit how much this will cost and whether my insurawill cover it, instead of a just worrying about my knee. Our health care system has some huge flaws. Americans have to worry how to pay for healthcare while the French do not have to ever think about that.

I wait for about 30-45 minutes then I get called to take two X-rays. I wait another 30 minutes for the doctor. My name is called.

Now time for the verdict . I try to positive as I walk doctors office but my mind races and there's probably something wrong since the recovery has taken longer than expected. I don't want this trip to end.

He speaks English. He says "you're OK." I’'m sort of stunned but soon feel relieved. He says there is nothing on the x-rays. He tests my leg and feels no problems. Now it's time don't know much does this cost.

I go to billing and tell me the total is $181 euros. That's $200, wow!!’ That's incredkible- nice hospital, good doctors and only $200. I am sure Queens hospital lwould be $500-1500. Viva le France!!

When I tell mom she thinks I am joking. When I tell her I am not joking then she looks stunned.

We drive to Condom and stop at an incredible pizza shop in the city center. I have my favorite pizza , margharita and it doesn't disappoint. It is one of the l best.

It's time to say our goodbyes to Fletcher and Mom.
They drop me off at the Gite. Sad to see them go. It was way to short. I watch as they drive away.

I check into the Gite. All I can say is “wow”. Hands down the best Gite on the Camino. Maya comes down when excited that return .

Clive and head out for burgers. Clive is lusting for a burger. We stop at the square next to the cathedral and eat an incredible burger. The Goodin France… oooh la la!!

The Gite owner makes arrangements to have my pack couriered ahead.

The plan is to walk small distances over the next week and courier my backpack as much as possible.

Day 26: The Pilgrim Dinner

Pilgrim's Dinner

Day 26: La Romieu
Statistics: distance walked 11.8 miles/ 18 km,  steps: 25,054  elevation climbed: 800 feet, sunny,70 degrees

Clive and Maya walk to La Romieu. Mom and Fletcher are dropping me off 10 kilometers from La Romieu. We drive to the end of a road and wait for them. Mom and Fletcher enjoy seeing the pilgrims start to walk by. After a couple groups of pilgrims walk by clive and maya arrive. We take some group pictures then we start walking. It's feels great to be walking again after 11 days of resting. Today is a test of 10 kilometers to La Romieu. It's a sunny day and we are walking through a beautiful countryside. It feels wonderful to be walking again.

We reach 8 km and right knee starts to become stiff on the backside. It's enough that I am forced to walk backwards for the last kilometer past a prune farm and an arboretum.

I reach the town and rest on a bench. After 20 minutes,the stiffness disappears totally. That's odd. I decide it's time to get some massage therapy for both legs and these stiff muscles. The information center recommends I talk to a nurse.

I mail some more stuff home weighing 1 kg and I ask mom to carry my walking sticks back to Boston. Which is at least another kilogram. So two packages and the sticks equal approximately 3 kilograms or 7 pounds. My backpack is 50% medical supplies and 50% cloths and essentials.

We decide to have dinner at the Gite. while make the appetizer. I will make the spaghetti and Mom & Fletcher will bring the wine. There's one other Pilgrim stayIng in the gite. I invite Claude to our dinner. He joins us for wine.

Claude is a retired chef from fountainbleu. He is
walking a couple of weeks. He is continuing where he stopped last year.s. He speaks good english.

During dinner The nurse stops by and examines my knee. She recommends going to emergency room tomorrow.

It's been 15 days since I last walked on the GR65. My knee swelling went down the first week. The pain in the inside of the knelwent away the second week. The only remaining issue is some stiffness in the back of the knee.

Tomorrow is the big day. Will the doctor tell me stop? Do I have to decide whether to go home, continue as a tourist only or slowly walk my way back into 25 km. Frankly, I expect the doctor to take the safe route and tell me to stop walking. Although no on says anything I
suspect everyone was thinking the same thing.

I go over to Mom and Fletcher’s hotel and drink wine and watch a beautiful sunset.
.

Day 25: Plus Beaux Villages de France

Day 25 Lectoure, France

Statistics: distance walked: 3.5 miles/5.6 km, steps: 7,458, elevation climbed: 130 feet
Slideshow:

It's a day off from walking. We all jump in the small rental car and drive to La Romieu. La Romieu is a “Plus Beaux Villages de France.” This is a designation given to the most beautiful towns and villages in France. I highly recommend if you're going to France Google “Plus Beaux Villages de France” and plan your vacation around those villages, you will not be disappointed.

La Romieu is a charming village with double steeple towers. it has a small cloister. Village has a history of cats. In the midieval times, the cats saved the village by eating the rats with the plague. The Town square has many cat statues on the buildings to honor the cats.

We just happen to be in the town for veterans honoring
The town’s fallen veterans. In France, war memorials honor In fallen from World War One. There's a second war memorial honoring the resistance fighters from World War II.

We drive to two more villages-Castelnau-sur L’Auvignon and Fleurance. Neither of them is really worth visiting again

We are all tired and retire early for the night.

Day 24: The Happy Couple

The Happy Couple

Day 24: Lectoure, France

Statistics: 6.0 miles/ 9.8 km, steps: 12,625, sunny, 70 degrees
Slideshow:

My mom for the past couple of years has spent a couple weeks on a small charming Cathar town, Cordes sur Ciel, in southern France.

I met them at the city wall portal. The town is having a flea market sale in the town square. We take a stroll through the market.

I buy strawberries and simple sugar crepe. The Strawberries are the best I've had in years. Amazing. They taste so good.

Living in Hawaii, i'm asked ”What do I miss from the mainland?” Without a doubt there's only one thing I miss besides my family and that's fresh fruit. Fruits are shipped green to Hawai'i and then irradiated to accelerate ripening. These Auvillar strawberries are to die for!

I spent the whole day with Mom & Fletcher. They’ve been dating for a couple of years. They look so happy together. I don't think i’ve seen my mom so happy. Mother's Day is this coming Sunday.

We drive To Lectoure to meet clive and maya. We have a nice dinner in the gardens of their hotel. The countryside is beautiful. We drink wine as the sun
sets. A good day!

Day 14 to 15 Eden's Garden

Day 14 & 15 Eden’s Garden

Statistics: 6.2 miles/10 km, steps: 13,657  elevation climbed: 360 feet
The next day driver drives me to Cahor. It's a quiet ride as neither of us speaks the other’s language. We arrive and it is 0°C - it is cold.

The Gite Papillion is in the middle of the city. It is in a very old building with five floors with a spiral staircase. We are on the top floor and the bathroom is two stories down.

Eden, owner of Gite is an interesting fellow. He lived in China for 12 years and married a Chinese national and has a two-year-old baby girl. He was a fashion photographer in China.

Since he returned three years ago, he's taken over the operation on his mother’s Gite for nine months of the year nonstop. He is a one-man army. Does reservations. Cleans the place. Makes dinner. And breakfast. It's a full day. In the morning his two phones ring non stop.

We meet Suzanne, a pilgrim from the Gold Coast of Australia I think from Bisbane.She's married to a Frenchman, but she walks by her self because her husband has difficulty walking. She's loves walking.

Elainor a Brazilian Doctor of Pathologist ,spends 2 monthes volunteering at the Gite. Interestingly, she's never walked the Camino, but loves volunteering.

We see Ingrid from Munich who we last saw in Le Sauvage. She's decided to turn around at St Jean de Pied Port. return back to Bavaria walking to her front door. She works at BMW in the administration.

I try to go daily walk to stretch the legs but it only aggravates the knee jury. It's almost impossible to find ice cubes in Europe. There’s a small store nearby and
It actually sells ice! Voila, now we can reduce the swelling. Elevation and ice!

We decide to go to Lauzerte tomorrow. I will go by van and Maya and Clive will walk for 2 days.

Day 22 - 23 The Hill

Day 22 - 23 Auvillar

Slideshow: https://youtu.be/OfKSbQ8j2vs
Day 21 walking distance: 10 km
I take the van to Auvillar. The landscape is lake flat. Would have been a great easy walking day. It would have been a great stage for day one . As we near Auvillar I see the distinct shape of nuclear steam vents. It reminds that France is very reliant on nuclear plants for power. They might have the most nuclear power plants compared to other European countries.

After dropping my bag off at the Gite communal Auvillar, I decided to do test hike and see where I am. I walk down the hill and across bridge and then back. It's about a 10 km walk. It feels pretty solid but there are some pins.I feel fine with an hour came back. The results are encouraging.

Clive and Maya arrive and they have a fantastic day walking along the water on the tree lined path. We check into the Gite. We are all impressed with this gite. It is the best Gite we have stayed at so far, but the wifi doesn't work…

Our roommate is Patrick who we saw in Moissac at the cloister. Patrick is a 61 year old Frenchman living 40 km from Geneva. He is currently spreading the word of the Saint Germain foundation. He is taking a detour to Auch and Lourdes for the cathedrals then he is going to Santiago.

We eat dinner and invite Patrick to join us. It's a great dinner among pilgrims.

I can't sleep so I go into the common space above the kitchen and play solitaire. I wake up at 3:00 am to a security flood lamp shining a light on me. Hmm. I wonder if police or the manager may be coming over? Of well. Time to get up. It's raining. I wander back to the room and slip under the blankets.

Day 23 distance walked 10km
At breakfast I share some videos with Patrick of our travels and he’s impressed. He loves the recordings of Conques and Moissac singing.

I decide to walk a couple jog kilometers with Clive and Maya. I walk down the other side of the hill down a muddy trail. We say our goodbyes at the highway underpass.

It's raining but a just a little cool. I sit here for Patrick to come by and take his picture. I then wander
Back to town and search in vain for wifi. Of well. Sometimes there's wifi and sometimes there's no wifi.

I am the first person to check into the Gite. A couple hours afterwards my room mate takes her mattress into the room with her friends. Yay I have my own room!

I make some pasta and have a late dinner. I sleep more than usual.

Injury update: I feel encouraged after two days of walking hills around Auvillar. No swelling and the pain has been reduced. I can't wait so full days.