Day 24: The Happy Couple

The Happy Couple

Day 24: Lectoure, France

Statistics: 6.0 miles/ 9.8 km, steps: 12,625, sunny, 70 degrees
Slideshow:

My mom for the past couple of years has spent a couple weeks on a small charming Cathar town, Cordes sur Ciel, in southern France.

I met them at the city wall portal. The town is having a flea market sale in the town square. We take a stroll through the market.

I buy strawberries and simple sugar crepe. The Strawberries are the best I've had in years. Amazing. They taste so good.

Living in Hawaii, i'm asked ”What do I miss from the mainland?” Without a doubt there's only one thing I miss besides my family and that's fresh fruit. Fruits are shipped green to Hawai'i and then irradiated to accelerate ripening. These Auvillar strawberries are to die for!

I spent the whole day with Mom & Fletcher. They’ve been dating for a couple of years. They look so happy together. I don't think i’ve seen my mom so happy. Mother's Day is this coming Sunday.

We drive To Lectoure to meet clive and maya. We have a nice dinner in the gardens of their hotel. The countryside is beautiful. We drink wine as the sun
sets. A good day!

Day 14 to 15 Eden's Garden

Day 14 & 15 Eden’s Garden

Statistics: 6.2 miles/10 km, steps: 13,657  elevation climbed: 360 feet
The next day driver drives me to Cahor. It's a quiet ride as neither of us speaks the other’s language. We arrive and it is 0°C - it is cold.

The Gite Papillion is in the middle of the city. It is in a very old building with five floors with a spiral staircase. We are on the top floor and the bathroom is two stories down.

Eden, owner of Gite is an interesting fellow. He lived in China for 12 years and married a Chinese national and has a two-year-old baby girl. He was a fashion photographer in China.

Since he returned three years ago, he's taken over the operation on his mother’s Gite for nine months of the year nonstop. He is a one-man army. Does reservations. Cleans the place. Makes dinner. And breakfast. It's a full day. In the morning his two phones ring non stop.

We meet Suzanne, a pilgrim from the Gold Coast of Australia I think from Bisbane.She's married to a Frenchman, but she walks by her self because her husband has difficulty walking. She's loves walking.

Elainor a Brazilian Doctor of Pathologist ,spends 2 monthes volunteering at the Gite. Interestingly, she's never walked the Camino, but loves volunteering.

We see Ingrid from Munich who we last saw in Le Sauvage. She's decided to turn around at St Jean de Pied Port. return back to Bavaria walking to her front door. She works at BMW in the administration.

I try to go daily walk to stretch the legs but it only aggravates the knee jury. It's almost impossible to find ice cubes in Europe. There’s a small store nearby and
It actually sells ice! Voila, now we can reduce the swelling. Elevation and ice!

We decide to go to Lauzerte tomorrow. I will go by van and Maya and Clive will walk for 2 days.

Sidebar: The History of the Le Puy Route

SIDEBAR

Le Puy or Via Podiensis route

Le Puy or Via Podiensis route is one of the four main pilgrimages through France heading towards Santiago, the home of the tomb of St. James.

The Le Puy route was used by pilgrims coming from France, Germany, Austria, Poland, Czech and Slovak republics. It joins with two other French routes from Paris and Vézelay. The fourth route from Arles has its own way over the Pyrenees.

Pilgrims have been traveling to Santiago de Compostela from Le Puy for over a thousand years. Godescalc, Bishop of Le Puy was one of the first pilgrims when he went there in 951 AD.

The pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela was most popular between 1,000 and 1,500 AD, even though numbers have dwindled at times due to political, social and cultural factors there has always been a steady flow of pilgrims.

The Le Puy route stretches from Le Puy-en-Velay to the Pyrenees talking the pilgrim through hilly regions, over rivers and streams, through beautiful countryside and through rustic villages. Eventually joining up with both the routes from Paris and Vézelay. Then meeting the Frances route leading to Santiago.

Day 22 - 23 The Hill

Day 22 - 23 Auvillar

Slideshow: https://youtu.be/OfKSbQ8j2vs
Day 21 walking distance: 10 km
I take the van to Auvillar. The landscape is lake flat. Would have been a great easy walking day. It would have been a great stage for day one . As we near Auvillar I see the distinct shape of nuclear steam vents. It reminds that France is very reliant on nuclear plants for power. They might have the most nuclear power plants compared to other European countries.

After dropping my bag off at the Gite communal Auvillar, I decided to do test hike and see where I am. I walk down the hill and across bridge and then back. It's about a 10 km walk. It feels pretty solid but there are some pins.I feel fine with an hour came back. The results are encouraging.

Clive and Maya arrive and they have a fantastic day walking along the water on the tree lined path. We check into the Gite. We are all impressed with this gite. It is the best Gite we have stayed at so far, but the wifi doesn't work…

Our roommate is Patrick who we saw in Moissac at the cloister. Patrick is a 61 year old Frenchman living 40 km from Geneva. He is currently spreading the word of the Saint Germain foundation. He is taking a detour to Auch and Lourdes for the cathedrals then he is going to Santiago.

We eat dinner and invite Patrick to join us. It's a great dinner among pilgrims.

I can't sleep so I go into the common space above the kitchen and play solitaire. I wake up at 3:00 am to a security flood lamp shining a light on me. Hmm. I wonder if police or the manager may be coming over? Of well. Time to get up. It's raining. I wander back to the room and slip under the blankets.

Day 23 distance walked 10km
At breakfast I share some videos with Patrick of our travels and he’s impressed. He loves the recordings of Conques and Moissac singing.

I decide to walk a couple jog kilometers with Clive and Maya. I walk down the other side of the hill down a muddy trail. We say our goodbyes at the highway underpass.

It's raining but a just a little cool. I sit here for Patrick to come by and take his picture. I then wander
Back to town and search in vain for wifi. Of well. Sometimes there's wifi and sometimes there's no wifi.

I am the first person to check into the Gite. A couple hours afterwards my room mate takes her mattress into the room with her friends. Yay I have my own room!

I make some pasta and have a late dinner. I sleep more than usual.

Injury update: I feel encouraged after two days of walking hills around Auvillar. No swelling and the pain has been reduced. I can't wait so full days.

Day 20 - 21 The Cloister

Day 20 - 21 The cloister

Moissac
Slideshow #1: https://youtu.be/8SvAa0orB2o
Slideshow #2: https://youtu.be/txYTtSrAEJo

Day 20 Distance walked: 10 km
Maya and I take a van from Lauzerte to Moissac. It's a short uneventful ride. Moissac is pronounced‍ moaiatv Arrive at the hostel and the Internet has been down for days. We walk to the town center, We check out the cathedral in the historic part of the town. The Cathedral is amazing. Built in 1063 by the Romans.It has the oldest cloister in the world built in 1100 AD. And then we try to find Wi-Fi but no luck.

Walk 10 km without problems. Clive walks by himself today and walks 32 km. He arrives at 5:00 PM after a beer with Wakeen and Marion from Luxembourg.

We head to the pizza place on our the main square. It's closed but will open in 10-15 minutes. We decide to checkout the church. It's 6:0 pm and I recall Rom saying the nuns sang for the 15 minutes a 6:00 pm. Perfect timing they started singing ok ready. Their voices are so high. They sing 3-4 songs thyen one of the nuns gives a sermon.

After dinner, Head over to the tourism office where there's free Internet. We loiter outside as we download and upload files and pictures.I find it's easy to give up many luxuries except wifi. In Europe its pronounced ‘wee fee’. We have become pretty good at finding free wifi. Usually the tourism offices have free wifi and also bars.

Day 21 Distance walked 10km
The next day we explore the cloister of the Abbey. It's an Unesco world heritage site. It's the oldest cloister in the world constructed in 1100 AD. That's 917 years old! Like other cloisters each column has a different capital. The capitals tell different biblical stories.

We visit the church first. There is someone playing the organ. It turns out that the church organ is famous and many people try to get opportunities to play. We listen to five songs then head to the cloister.

The cloister is outstanding. It's hard to tell it is 900 years old. 64 capitals of the columns are in fairly good condition except during the French Revolution someone took a hammer and hit most of the capitals. It's such an incredible space I spend a couple hours enjoying It.

At dinner I sit next to Gabriella. She is From Switzerland and in her late 60s. She always wanted to start a restaurant so she did she was finally 61. Her ex-husband was an architect. She turned 60 she decides to take time to do things always dreamed of doing, and not wait for what’s going to happen to next.

We are staying in Gite called Ulteia owned by an irish couple - Aideen and Tom. There are very nice. It seems almost every Pelerin Gite in France is very nice. Definitely recommend this Gite!

Injury report: so it's been about 10 days since I injured my right knee causing me to have to stop walking and hop skip the route to stay near Clive and maya. The knee is still in a little pain but there's no swelling and recovery is happening but slowly. I have started walking again, a modest 10 km over flat Terrains . Doesn't seem to affect my recovery.

Day 16 to 19 - The French Cafe

Day 16 to 19 - Lauzerte

I take a van from Cahor to Lauzertez. The driver speaks a little English. I use my Google translate to ask some questions and have a small conversation. The drive through the countryside is just beautiful. The farmers are busy preparing their fields for the summer. The drive is too quick. Lauzerte comes in to view. A small town perched on top of the hill with commanding views. The road up the hill slowly reveals the city, one layer at a time up the hill slowly reveals the city one layer at a time. The town features stone houses and a recently installed cobblestone roads.

The first day is very flavorful and exciting as it Market day in the town square and there is a wonderful singing Guitar player, Calumbi, strumming French Cafe Type music. The square is full of vendor, And the whole town is in the square. The crowd loves the music. Theres still an hour before the Gite Communial opens. I head to a little park in the edge of town and sit on a bench. After an
hour head to the Gite and I run into Eric, a French pilgrim also checking in. The Gite manager, Corrine checks us both in. Then stamps our pilgrim credentials.

I opt for dinner which turns out to be an incredible meal of a delicious legume soup, bread, and rice & chicken zmain course and chocolate pudding. I sit across from Eric Voss who is walking for 1 week and started in Conques. We talk through dinner and continue talking in the study. He is a 50+ French chemical engineer married to a Vietnamese wife of 30 years. He speaks excellent English. His son just graduated from a Pestigous French college for pharmacy and his daughter is through 6 years of med school and has 3 Years left. He Works as a safety Engineer at a French carmaker. I give Eric a Camino card and tell him to visit us. He recipicates. It would be great to see Eric again in Hawaii. Go to sleep.

The next day is pretty uneventful . I spend most of the day creating a video of Market day.

On the third day, I switch hostels to Gite Figuro. Dinner is the highlight of the day. We sit across from two 50+ year old Americans-Judy and Meg. They met at a small liberal arts college in Ohio over 30 years ago.They do a week or two of the Camino every year. So far they have done 3 trips. They both loved the Racomador alternste.

Judy is a Steelers fan form Pittsburgh moved to Atlanta. Judy decided when she hit 50 she would do the Camino. Judy speaks French. Meg moved to Mexico, owns furniture company that makes furniture out of reuse and Copper. Meg speaks Spanish. They're walking short distance tomorrow due to the rain and then taking a shuttle to Lectoure for a day at the spa. There's a discount rate for pilgrims at €35. Then they're flying Home.

That night we stay in a room with two French pilgrims- Donny the Auto mechanic and his friend. His friends foot is the worst I've seen as blisters. He to see a doctor and maybe take a week rest before continuing.

On the fourth day, we switch to a hostel that is just about to open. We have the whole place to ourselves. We just take easy day and restock supplies and do some Internet stuff.

Day 11 to 13 The Swollen Knee

Day 11 to 13 The Swollen Knee

After 5 days of my right knee being in pain, it's time to stop and rest. I will take a van two days walking distance to Limogne en-Quercy and check in to the Gite. I will wait there for Clive and Maya and reassess my knee in two days. It's only day 11 of 89 days in Europe, best to be patient.

My driver is Jeremie. He's in his 20s and drives from March to November then off-season he trains to be a guide for spelunking in France and dog sledding in Norway. Who would have guessed? How many dog sledding spelunkers do you meet?

I get the last bed in Limogne en-Quercy. It's Monday and the town is closed for business except a bar and a small grocery store.

I limp around town and buy some groceries and some magic ointment called Osteophytum from the pharmecia. It has a herbal remedy call Arnica in the cream. I fill my backpack food for less than $20. I return to the Gite.

Just a note, pharmacies in Europe are almost like a clinic, where you can get some pretty powerful drugs over the counter that would require a prescription in the USA. The only challenge is the language barrier, as mentioned earlier, I took 8 times the dosage for magnesium since there were no directions in any language on the packet. Highly recommend a translation app like Google translate and download French for offline usage.

While we are on the subject of apps, another app that is essential is Pocket Maps which replaces hiking GPS devices. You download a hiking GPX file (GPX or Google Earth format will work) of the Podiensis route and import it to Pocket Maps. Google maps does not work without cellular or wifi, while Pocket Maps will work. This will taking a wrong tu

The first night, my roommate is Marie who I met in Conques at the dinner at the Abbey. She’s French and she speaks good English. She's a primary school teacher focused on 3 to 4 year olds. She's on a sabbatical for 6 months walking to Finisterre or Muxia. She has a good heart and has had some bad luck with her credit card which hasn't worked for a couple of days. She's hoping it can be fixed today at the post office which is also her bank. Isee her later in the day everything is worked out well. She's gotten some money from from the bank and shedecides to stay another night.

I lighten my load and mail 2 pounds of stuff home. I leave about 2 pounds in the Gite as a donation for other walkers to use. I reduce my pack weight a total 4 pounds. My pack should weight about 16 pounds, but I buy some foot cream.

As much as possible I keep my legs elevated usually sitting up against a wall with both feet high on the wall. While ice and elevation is a good idea It is very hard to find ice in Europe. Europeans don't use ice in drinks.

The Gite only as 11 beds. Most are taken by a theater group which is preparing to do a production in the town. There's a director, female and male lead role all staying here. On the wall in the dining room are a collage of theatre posters from the different events last year or two in the town. Impressive how a small town with so few people can get such incredible culture and art. Turns out funds for these opportunities are funded through the national government.

The second night, Clive and Maya arrive wet. They walked in the rain all day. They decide to stay two nights in Limogne. I will end up staying 3 nights here. My knee is still sore, so this is a good thing. I hope it improves tomorrow. We spend the rest of the evening planning where we are going to go next.

For dinner, we had our first warm meal in a while. We prepare a pasta with sausage, tomato sauce and cheese in the Gite’s kitchen . Even drink a wine from Cahor.

After dinner Clive and I talk to two 50+ year old French ladies walking a week or two in their multi year quest to finish the Podiensis. They are very interested in my knee and ask a bunch of questions. It turns out that one of them has also had an ACL knee reconstruction. Medical terms are difficult to translate so we use Google translate on our phones to communicate, which is kind of funny.

The third and final day in Limogne is spent exploring the town shops, checking our email, arranging for transportation to Cahor and accommodations for two nights.

The knee is better but still has some pins and needle type pain in the interior of the joint. It’s most likely some cartilage damage from the past that got aggravated. Only time will reset that injury and more rest days should be the ticket. The knee feels a better. Cross my fingers that I am walking soon…

We finish the final night in Limogne cooking pasta and playing darts at the local bar.

Tomorrow We head for Cahor and free internet.